As we prepared to depart from Baleia, aiming for the fishing village of Icaraizinho 40km away, our host Andreas suggested we take two of his Brazilian friends along for the ride.
Neither of us thought it was that safe. Charlie was very reluctant to take a passenger, citing various reasons including the fact that the terrain was reportedly tricky on the route, that he didn’t want his collection of after sun and moisturisers being squashed by someone sitting on his buggy bag, that we had no extra helmets, and that if he was going to take anyone on the back, it should be his girlfriend.
With these objections duly dismissed by Andreas we found ourselves with a Brazilian lady each sat on the back of our buggies – shrieking in our ears as we crashed through small streams and hurtled up and down dunes. With the strong wind we soon left the kitesurfers and VW dune buggy that had joined us for the downwinder far behind!
Charlie had a few out of buggy moments – preferring his passenger to hold onto the bag and buggy rather than him, therefore struggling with the added inertia needed to start and stop in the deep sand. I however, put my passenger Adriana to good use – getting her to hold on to me like a motorbike rider, which helped me avoid being ripped out of my seat by the kite.
Having negotiated miles of tricky off road sections which held little margin for error, we soon found ourselves in Icaraizinho where we dropped off our shaken and sandy (but thankfully injury free) passengers.
It was then we paused to look at our surroundings. Situated in a palm lined bay, with areas for both waves and flat water, Icaraizinho gets the full force of Brazil’s North East wind, so it’s no wonder Club Ventos has chosen this spot to open a windsurf hotel. With the main income from fishing, there’s little tourism in the town and it has the same atmosphere we’ve enjoyed at other small settlements along the coast. Locals sit outside their houses in hammocks and socialise until late at night, and fresh coconuts are sold for a few cents at roadside stalls.
There was no time to explore the town further or get out on the water though, as come 7 a.m. the next morning it was onwards to Almofala and to do battle with mangrove swamps…